Its 6am and I’m already stuck in traffic. But instead of grinding my teeth or leaning on the hooter, I’m dead calm. This is no N1 snarl-up – the traffic jam is a result of a herd of elephant which’ve stopped to pull grass out by the trunkful at the side of the road in the Nkomazi Game Reserve.

Instead of cursing and revving, the only sound is a gentle rustling as they lazily twist and rip the long grass, before chewing thoughtfully as they eye the game-viewing vehicle. It’s easy for them to be calm because they’re bigger than everything else in the 15 000-hectare reserve – though one did once take offence to the proximity of khaki-clad tourists and flipped the Land Rover like a burger patty. Nobody is rushing them…

Nkomazi is just over three hours from Jo’burg, between Emanzini and Barberton – but it may as well be on a different planet. Teeming with wildlife from the inevitable Impala to lanky giraffe, and a playful pride of lion to the most languid of hippo. The Komati Tented Lodge is a magical 12-tented camp nestled in the crook of a mountain range, only accessible via a 25-minute 4×4 drive from the gate, where you can park your car safely. Five of the tented rooms run alongside the river, while the other seven are dotted higher up the hillside, away from the main camp which features a boma area for open-air dinners, a dining tent for trickier weather and a ‘Majilis’ lounge tent with a viewing deck where afternoon tea and pre-dinner drinks are served.

The tented rooms themselves are built for privacy, spaced far apart and discreetly shielded enough that there’s no concern when using the outside shower or bath. The expansive deck also has space for sun loungers and a plunge pool, with uninterrupted bushveld views. The tented sides of the room can be rolled up for maximum bush immersion, or if you prefer to keep nature at arm’s length, you can zip everything shut and contemplate the silence from the plush king-size bed. There’s an indoor shower too, a loo with a view and a minibar and tea/coffee station with a seemingly-endless supply of freshly-baked biscuits from the kitchen.

Meals don’t follow the traditional bush lodge line, so there’s no sharing of tables with the rest of the guests. Bearing in mind that everything is prepared fresh and the nearest town is at least 90 minutes away, the food is slick, healthy and tasty. Orders are taken in advance so dishes arrive in concert while the always-attentive waiters are never far away to top up drinks.

If game drives don’t so it for you, there’s also the option to take guided game walks or mountain bike rides through the reserve. Fly-fishing is a great option thanks to almost 30km of the Komati River than runs through the reserve and stargazing sessions are a fantastic way to spend a cloudless evening. There’s a ‘River Retreat’ spa too, right beside the river, negating the need for cheesy panpipe muzak.

Stays at Komati Tented Lodge start at R1795 per person sharing, inclusive of meals & game drives.

*A version of this article originally appeared in khuluma.