The effects of terroir on a wine can feel greatly exaggerated, with a metre of elevation here or a minute difference in soil composition, there, often used as marquee marketing elements in attempting to set it apart from its regional siblings. While there’s definitely merit to the assertion that the landscape and atmospheric conditions in which grapes are grown confer unique characteristics on the finished product, there are few more compelling arguments for its effect on a wine than in the ocean-kissed bottlings from Fryer’s Cove.

Situated just over 300km from Cape Town in the quintessential West Coast fishing ‘dorpie’ of Doringbaai, Fryer’s Cove wines are quietly developing a cult following for their unique expressions of Sauvignon Blanc, a Blanc Fumé variant and Pinot Noir, in particular. With their vineyards in nearby Lutouw, Lamberts Bay and Bamboes Bay situated just 800m from the frosty Atlantic, the ocean winds which sweep ashore bring with them flakes of sea salt which cling to the vine leaves and grapes, increasing alkalinity, repelling mildew and adding a distinct minerality to their juices. The cove also tempers the power of the ferocious Atlantic winds and fosters a micro climate which allows for slow ripening of the grapes over a longer period of time than many other Cape-based vineyards, delivering concentrated flavours which winemaker Derick Koegelenberg and his team coax into the bottle, via the barrel.

The winery – which also hosts tastings – is situated in the most rustic of old fisheries facilities, forming a focal point for the increasingly steady trickle of tourist trade which is discovering the West Coast gem.

First planted in 1999, the establishment of the vineyards which contribute grapes to the winery was a literal labour of love for Wynand Hamman, who overcame the area’s drought-driven challenges by building a 30km pipeline from Vredendal to irrigate them.

A visit to Doringbaai isn’t about opulence and fine dining – the ramshackle appearance of the winery building (which doesn’t reflect quality of its production methods) adds an additional layer of appeal to the products which issue forth from it and the adjacent community-run Jetty Restaurant serves simple, but good-quality food. Life is slower up the West Coast – and it’s no coincidence that a leisurely approach is also best employed when sampling Fryer’s Cove’s finest.

The Fryer’s Cove Wine Cellar and Tasting Room is open daily from Monday to Friday, 09:00 to 17:00 and Saturdays from 10:00 to 17:00. Visit www.fryerscove.co.za for more.

*A version of this story appeared on the Prestige Magazine website in July 2018.