Pic: Alvi’s Drift

Wine shouldn’t be about a price point. Part marketing hype, part production expense, part controlled scarcity, pricing means that there are plenty of less-than-stellar wines out there that cost the earth but deliver as much as a wine that costs a two-thirds less. Similarly, some wines are massively expensive because they deliver. Similarly, your choice of wine shouldn’t be governed by the sticker price – that’s for attempting to impress dates and to give you something to brag about on the golf course to distract people from the deficiencies in your short game.

Alvi’s Drift’s new 221 range comes with – as nearly every modern wine does – a story. This one is linked to Springbok ‘Oupa Alvi’s’ career-defining try against the mighty All Blacks in 1928. If you’re a rugby fan, it’s a great tale that might make you give a new wine, a… try… If you’re simply a wine drinker who enjoys great value wines, the arrival of a new range to try is probably enough of an incentive, if the Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinotage or Shiraz-led seven-way blend are wines you think you’d enjoy.

Pic: Alvi’s Drift

We can talk pH levels, alcohol content and wild yeast fermentation if you like, or we can talk about the end result in the bottle, which is what’s more likely to make you buy some. And buy some, you should. At R100 a bottle for the two whites and R110 for the two reds, the 221 range delivers serious value.

The Chenin Blanc (2021) is delicate in nose and flavour, with potentially powerful flavours like peach and vanilla softened by some time in French oak. There isn’t a long finish to it, which isn’t a bad thing. ‘Delicate’ is the right word – it’s a subtle wine that’ll go well with a meal (all the wines in this range were composed with food pairing in mind) like roast pork or chicken.

The Sauvignon Blanc (2022) reminded me that the varietal doesn’t have to pack an acidic punch. This was reinforced by a visit to WineX where I tried a few (far pricier and more awarded) Sauvignon Blancs, most of which had a powerful tang to them. The Alvi’s Drift 221 version has none of that – though its flavour profile is less subtle than the Chenin. It’s creamier, if that makes sense, in mouthfeel and taste. There are layers to it that would be otherwise hidden by gooseberry tartness that give it plenty of presence. At R100 a bottle, it punches above its weight and is a great summer wine. The pairing suggestions for this one from the Alvi’s Drift team are freshly-steamed asparagus, ceviche or goats’ cheese & tomato quiche.

Pic: Alvi’s Drift

My favourite – and I do admit a bias towards red wines, up front – is the 2020 Special Cuvée. I used this wine as a trial to see if I was worthy of writing a review in the first place, trying it without reading anything about it (that’s ‘blind’ to the tasting snobs). The ‘pencil shavings’ and depth pointed to a Cabernet Sauvignon that had spent some time in decent oak, there was a Shiraz spiciness to it and there was something smooth to it that made me think there was a dash of Merlot in there somewhere. I wasn’t miles off, but I would never have said that Shiraz was the dominant component at 41%, with Cabernet Sauvignon second with 28%. The rest of the blend comprises Pinotage (13%); Petit Verdot and Grenache (5% each) and 4% each of Viognier and Durif. Viognier regularly finds its way into red blends in tiny proportions as a perfumer, but I’ll give R1 000 to any amateur wine drinker who can single out a Durif component in a blend. Soft tannins, integrated red fruit – bit of spice, a hint of liquorice – and a value that far surpasses its R110 price point. I’d argue that it gives red blends twice its price, a decent run in complexity and refinement. The Alvi’s Drift team says you should enjoy it with porcini mushroom & truffle risotto or grilled steak with a creamy pepper sauce – and it’ll easily complement the former without being overpowered by the latter. But you can also drink it without food and to enjoy a complexity that’s quite rewarding.

If these wines are indicative of the types of wines that Worcester produces – and I’ll admit that I don’t know the area well, at all – then I’ll be making a conscious effort to try more from the region.

Visit the Alvi’s Drift site to find out more about the 221 range. It’s rare to be able to recommend purchasing a case of wine that comes in at R600 (Chenin Blanc & Sauvignon Blanc) and R660 (Pinotage & Special Cuvée) – but I do – and you should.